An Evening with Bobby Kolade
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On 20 June 2024, Nieuwe Instituut and fashion platform State of Fashion welcomed designer Bobby Kolade from the Ugandan brand BUZIGAHILL for a conversation about his design practice, his brand, and the local ecological and social impact of the fashion industry. In this edition of the series, which features both emerging and established international designers, Kolade delved into the supply chains of second-hand clothing and the notion of waste colonialism.
Many countries in Europe and North America export waste that, according to manufacturers, is too difficult—or too expensive—to process domestically to the ‘Global South,’ particularly to the African continent. A large portion of the discarded textiles that end up in countries like Uganda as second-hand clothing originates from fast fashion. Although he would also prefer to see the global production, trade, and consumption of clothing organised differently, Bobby Kolade has been compelled to creatively reinterpret the current possibilities. With his brand BUZIGAHILL, he operates under the principle of ‘return to sender’. The brand sorts, washes, and deconstructs garments from the Global North, transforming them into entirely new pieces of clothing that are then sold back in the countries from which the original clothing was sourced.
An evening with Bobby Kolade was organised as part of the State of Fashion Biennale 2024. Kolade’s latest collection was featured in the main exhibition Ties that Bind, which was on display in Arnhem from 17 May to 30 June. Watch the recording of An evening with Bobby Kolade below.
